Pondicherry , a quaint French colony, synonym with Sri Aurobindo Ashram and Auroville. This easy going, casual, halcyon town is best experienced, discerned, explored with a two wheeler or two feet ( like a popular phrase in Bombay, 11 number ki bus bus no. 11 :)).
An interesting 4 hour drive throught the Kanchipuram district, an astounding tasty typical local veg thali at Adyar Anand Bhavan, the temples with its distinctive architecture, annonces our arrival to the South. Hotel DuParc , Pondicherry, is centrally located in the French quater. Five minutes from Sri Aurobindo Ashram, Sri Manakula Vinayagar temple( Ganapati temple which has been there since 1666!) , the Seaside Promenade and all the attractions, all walking distance. With many a Cafe's & restuarants , stop every so often and enjoy some interesting cuisines. Shopoholic, there is something interesting for you too!
The distinct architecture of the French quater, with its tree lined street ,mustard coloured colonial villas and the grey coloured individuallized Ashram buildings, is partitioned by the parallel running Storm water canal, from the sharp contrast, of the flagrant Tamil quater, animate , boasting of typical south indian architectural houses with large wooden door and grilles.The one street on Tamil side, a must visit is 36 Vysial st , walk into Neemrana La Maison Tamoule ( 15 mins walkng from DuParc) , which serves the best filter coffee with an ambience that spells old culture.
An amusing auto ride to Auroville, help from the information desk, its time to canvass this large expanse ..... an insight into their serene , yet energized , buzzing medley of activities. Sitting at the Café , we soak in this ambience.
The one kilometre impressive garden path, is the doorway to Matri Mandir, a revelation of the Mother's vision. Each of the 12 gardens, is named after a Flower, signifying their essence and Quality, corresponding to the 12 petal base of the Matri Mandir. Our one regret was not being able to go inside the Matri Mandir, having heard so much about the meditation experience at the Inner Chamber , completely white, with white marble walls and deep, white carpeting, pristine crystal-glass globe which permeates a ray of electronically guided sunlight that falls on it through an opening at the apex, radiating natural lighting in the Inner Chamber. Next time!
Go through the Auroville link, to get details on ensuring your visit to the Inner Chamber of the Matri Mandir !
The beach front,Club Mahindra resorts, half hour away from DuParc, gives us the perfect oppurtunity to completely spoil ourselves. Be around their private beach or venture further to the fisher folks village. Its your time on the beach to do what you want! Total Chillax time!
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Less than two hours drive away from Pondicherry, is how long it takes to reach Chitambaram temple, housing 4 temples, with focus on the Nataraja temple , and thats where we head. With no guide, and temples in this complex spread out, its help of a few local and young priests , who just about manage with some English to direct us. Intime for the Arati, outside the sanctum - sanctorium , intriguing, the chants, the sounds of the instruments, priests and locals particitating with such love and devotion. A hundred rupee dakshina , to one of the priests sitting in a cluster , a recept given and we go instide the sanctum. A remarkable view of the Nataraja, however, the formless image & the idol of Parvati, evades us. The temple with the reclining Vishnu , is imposing , with number of intricate idols surronding him. Its hot ,the floor burns, difficult to walk bare foot, we just do a quick dekho of the complex, skipping the visit inside all the temples. We walk across the thousand pillar hall , towards the Holy pond and capture the beauty, essence of the majestic labyrinthine temples of the Devi, Murugan, Shiva Linga's .... the Yagna mandap , not allowing the ongoing repairs to deter us.
Half a day spent at Mahaballipuram, before heading to Chennai , was ample time to take in the history of this place and the monuments. We had a guide , who took us through the entire history and geography , bringing life to this magnum UNESCO Heritage site. the monolithic rock cut architecture, structural buildings, the cave temples, the sculptures, detailed carvings of Mahabharata , makes Mahaballipuram a visual delight. However, a full day here would have given us time to walk around the arresting Fisherman Colony near Shore temple, with a meal at Moonrakers, which comes in highly recommended, or any other local eatery, followed by coffee at Radisson Blu!
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Highlights !
21st Feb, Mother's birthday celebration at the ashram, a day when the doors of the ashram are opened wide for everyone. We get the pass at 5am in the morning ( thanks to information from a friend and devotee). These passes gives us the time slot for our entry into the ashram. Walking through the entire ashram, the rooms of the Mother and Sri Aurobindo, is like going in a time warp. A memory and an affair to cherish!
A young lad, Robin, with his musical instruments , belts out old english numbers, time to tap our foot on the promanade!
The best Ratatouille crepe we have had , including the croissant sandwitch, the ginger cake, all yum , at Artika Cafe Gallery. Chettinad chicken at a small local place on the Tamil quater, tasssttyyy!
At the beginning of 36,Vysial Street, we spot the Italian Dhabba, most unusal name , wonder what dhabba style italian food they served here:)
And Some ..... we totally missed .... for next time!
Pichavaram Mangwrove forest, half hour from Chitambaram, known for its rides in country boats through the backwater with thick & dense mangrove forest.
Tiruvannamalai, 2 hours from Pondicherry , home of Sri Ramana Maharshi, one of the largest Jain sculpture and the
Annamalaiyar temple.
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